I can’t pinpoint exactly when I first came across a wine made by Susana Balbo, but I do know that I quickly cottoned on that if it was made by her, it was worth checking out.
What I hadn’t realised, until a recent tasting in London, was quite how much of a pioneer Susana has been. Not only was she Argentina’s first professional female wine maker, she has set the standard for winemaking in the country, with Tim Atkin naming her his Winemaking Legend in 2020, receiving the IWC Lifetime Achievement Award in 2022, and three time President of Wines of Argentina.
But you’re probably familiar with all that – what I didn’t know was how Susana has had an impact beyond wine, focusing especially on elevating other women. Among many other things, she was a founder member of the Argentina branch of the International Women’s Forum. And she even managed to squeeze in a stint as national member of Congress for Mendoza from 2015-19.
So, as you might imagine, a tasting which had been intended to be a vertical of Susana’s Signature White Blend, but which had to be re-jigged at the very last moment, due to customs delays, did nothing to faze her. Instead, we tasted a range of her current releases, all of which showed her attention to detail, precise winemaking and deep understanding of variety and terroir.
I won’t list every wine we tasted – but I will highlight Susana Balbo Signature Barrel Fermented Torrontes. Those last three words can strike fear into any wine drinker: why on earth give a variety with more than enough of its own, rather flowery character (sometimes straying closer to aftershave than wine) the barrel fermentation treatment? But, of course Susana has managed to coax a rather subtle and fresh wine from these grapes, with jasmine aromas and a surprising lightness of touch. Bright and lively, it was a great match for prawn and avocado ceviche.
Sometimes, meeting your heroes is a good idea after all. But I am hoping that the vertical tasting of her Signature White Blend will eventually happen!
Tags: Argentina Susana Balbo