VINES OR VESSELS?! – Association of Wine Educators

VINES or VESSELS?!

On a recent visit to Roussillon, my interest in tanks, stoneware eggs, barrels and casks of all shapes and sizes (some would say, I need to get out more), was pricked at time spent with the wonderfully charismatic Xavier at Chateau de L’Ou.

WHY-WHAT-HOW

L’ou in Catalan language means ‘egg’ and so the estate was named due to the discovery of an egg shaped water source on the property used as a stopping point. The estate was acquired in 1998 and covers 50 hectares in the Pyrenees-Orientales department. Organic farming principles are followed and the entire estate has certification.

BACK TO VINES….

The 50 hectares of vines are spread throughout Montescot, Maury, Saint-Paul de Fenouillet and Caudies de Fenouilledes. Harvest is determined by ripeness but also quality of skins and seeds. Exclusively by hand and more importantly in the morning from sunrise to noon in order to preserve the freshness of the fruit. Only 10kg crates are used to prevent damage in transfer.

Varieties include Grenache Gris, Chardonnay, Syrah and Grenache Noir.

ON TO VESSELS….

Now back to the point of this piece and my fascination for vessels.

Concrete vats, whether lined or unlined are increasingly used for fermentation. They allow for controlled micro-oxygenation, unlike traditional stainless steel.

Terracotta amphora go back to Greek times when many goods and liquids were transported in them. Modern winemakers favour them as they allow better settling and are often used for orange wines, where the long skin contact over four months in cool temperatures extracts the delicate orange colour and retains freshness and purity of fruit .

Ovoid shaped terracotta eggs are used (pictured above top) for controlled temperature fermentation. The ovoid shape sets the lees into perpetual motion, naturally accentuating the varietal aromas and minerality, while requiring minimal intervention.

Wooden fermentation vessels are treasured by traditionalists, and winery dogs!, for red wine maceration as they retain heat especially well, which favours extraction. 300 litre French oak barrels are used for skin contact maceration lasting for 4 – 5 hours at 5 degrees C, which obtains excellent extraction of flavours and aromas.

So you see where we are going with this….

Wines perform and express themselves differently according to their chosen vinification vessel. We know this on paper, but at Chateau de L’Ou they show it. The same Grenache Gris from Agly Valley is vinified in three types. Large stoneware, barrels and rotating casks. Chateau de L’Ou are truly committed to starting with healthy grapes and then letting them show their fruit, terroir and purity in the gentlest of handling.

Just ask the dog…